My first encounter in Italy goes like this: I walk up to the rental car desk to pick up my car. After messing with the computer the guy says the software is not working, and he will have to do everything by hand. When the time comes to get the credit card authorization, no one will answer the phone. “No one wants to work here”, he sighs. There is a sign on the window that says to throw the keys on the floor if no one is there.
This says so much about how different Italy seems compared to Germany (or the U.S. for that matter).
My car is missing a hubcap, the clutch pedal squeaks every time it’s pressed, and the seatbelt indicator beeps even though the belt is fastened.
Right away I notice the difference in driving: lack of turn signal usage, passing without regard to road markings that disallow it, edging the car out into traffic and leaving it there though oncoming traffic must swerve.
I’m reminded again that the afternoon siesta is very much honored – with many stores and businesses closing somewhere between 1:30 – 3:30.
I’d made some arrangements to rent a bike – I hoped. After a brief phone conversation 2 weeks earlier, I hadn’t been able to reach the bike shop. The phone number appeared to no longer work and emails went unanswered. I was a little worried,
On my way to the hotel I stop by the bike shop. It’s being remodeled and is completely gutted. But the owner happens to be there watching the work, and says he can bring me a bike later in the afternoon. I pick up the bike, a very nice Colnago -- not something you’d normally see for a rental. I don’t fill out any forms, sign anything, or give a deposit. I guess that means I can take it home with me.
I’m thinking of two very different books I’ve read about Italy: “Under The Tuscan Sun”, by Francis Mayes, and “Italian Neighbors”, by Tim Parks. While the first is more poetic (ignore that it was made into a bad film), Tim Parks’ book captures so much more of how things are -- the absurdity, chaos, contradiction, and at the same time the importance of stopping to enjoy life. (Parks also wrote a very enjoyable book, “A Season with Verona”, about a season spent with other fans – often quite obnoxious -- supporting the Verona soccer team.)
This trip I think is a good transition to life in the U.S. I’ll try to take some piece of it back with me.
1 comment:
Wow Brian, Tuscany looks to be everything I've heard about it. The pictures you have posted so far are gorgeous. The landscape in Ohio is still quite bleak by comparison.
I would post some pictures for you, but you know all too well what it looks like ;).
Besides taking some time off work to enjoy Italy before returning to the U.S., you've also timed your return rather well as far as the weather goes.
This past Saturday, March 3, wasn't too bad. Temps got into the upper-30's and, although it was very windy, I managed 50 miles in a little over 2-1/2 hours. Sunday was crap - back to the trainer.
The forecast had looked pretty good for this week, but that has changed drastically. Temps below freezing (slipping into the teens overnight) and more snow on the way. However, it is supposed to get up over 40 by Friday and be reasonably nice for the weekend.
So, when you return this coming weekend, at least you won't be shocked by the frigid air. Oh, and the time change is this weekend too.
Bienvenidos a los Estados Unidos mi amigo.
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