Hot springs and vino

If I could, I would ride every day. But I know that you need rest days too. My body was sore in odd places from riding a strange bike, so when I read in my guide book about some hot springs not too far from here, it seemed a good idea for a rest day.

I decided to head for a town called Bagno Vignoni. It looked to be a 2-hour drive, and was also not far from Montalcino, which is known for a particular type of very good wine (Brunello) produced only in that region.

Arriving in Bagno Vignoni, I was surprised to find an extremely charming, very small town, mostly deserted at this time of year. There is a large pool in the town center, surrounded by old stone buildings. They don’t allow bathing in the pool anymore – I can imagine it would make the town center a mess, especially during the high season.

To use the hot springs, you must go to the local hotel (and pay), where the hot water flows into a large pool. Just like the rest of town, the pool was mostly deserted. The water was very hot where it poured into the pool, and then a little cooler farther away. I soaked for a while and enjoyed the views out over the valley.


I left to eat lunch, outside at a small restaurant just in view of old pool. I had an excellent meal of polenta baked with cheeses and tomatoes, and broiled pork tenderloin wrapped in pancetta and served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar – simple but made very well.

After lunch I came back to the pool and soaked for another hour. It was incredibly quiet and peaceful. I felt as though I had been extremely lucky in finding this place, at this time of year, without any of the tourist crowds that are surely here in summer.


On the way back home I stopped in Montalcino and sampled the wine at one of the many wine bars. Being so relaxed, I couldn’t resist paying way too much for a bottle of one of the good Brunellos – something I wouldn't do under normal circumstances. I may have to ditch some clothes to make sure there is room in my suitcase for a well-protected bottle of wine.